I Wiped Out. A Lot. Here's What I Learned.


Hey Reader,

A couple of weekends ago I travelled down south to the hauntingly beautiful land of Savannah to check in with the gallery. I of course hopped over to the sleepy coastal town of Tybee Island to catch some surfing with my beach bum buddy, Nick. It was a calm two days of letting the vastness of the sea fill our souls.

Going way back to since I was a kid, I have wanted to give surfing a try. I am a bit wet behind the ears (pun intended), I only recently picked it up in the last year. But with each session I learn a little bit something more while making sure that I am first, having fun.

This particular surf session weekend, I had a simple goal of catching (trying) as many waves as possible. To not wait. Not wait for that “perfect” wave. Oh sure, Nick and I took our moments to simply tread in the oceanic abyss, watching seagulls and pelicans above as the crescent moon popped up from the clouds. (We swapped our regular “dawn patrol” session for “night beach”) When the waves started firing, I started catching any and every wave.

The immediate wipeouts occurred. Some I couldn’t even get to my pop up and just rode the wave like I was on a beach float. But eventually something cool started to happen. I started to feel my board and understand the connection to the wave. More and more I was able to get to my knees. Then to one knee. Then, eventually, standing.

Some waves were better than others, but all of it is enormous amount of joy. I stopped worrying about catching the perfect wave and simply enjoyed my time because if you wait for that perfect wave, it may never come.

Add Sprinkles,
-Will

THOUGHT YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW

Ocean waves support a variety of marine life. The tidal pools that are formed by waves, supports the microhabitats of crustaceans, mollusks, algae, and many small fishes.


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